I've been sitting on the most uncomfortable chair ever made (too long to allow my feet to reach
the ground, too short to allow me to lean backwards and still be able to read). The backs of my
knees hurt from the wooden support against the legs, but it is just too hot and humid to move elsewhere or to even move any muscle.
Sweat drips down my back and my skirt is glued to my legs. Every couple of minutes I feel like I need to engulf big chunks of air to expel the excess fire from the stormy heat.
I can hear the dominos clashing against one another on the improvised table set on the street
downstairs, while I can visualise the four old men that play every day on the same place for hours in a row.
From the pateo of 'casa Tony', my presence seems to mingle with the afternoon atmosphere. The noise that would have otherwise annoyed me elsewhere; here it just feels
natural, it is the sound of living.
Republic's street in Baracoa isn't the noisiest but certainly not the
quietest either in this stormy cloudy afternoon. Spanish tv is audible from the neighbours house,
the cock sings at four in the afternoon and the dominos now being shuffled, topless and barefeet kids play with marbles after stripping off their impeccably clean communist school uniforms.
House doors and windows are left open, allowing the passants to peep inside, greet the babies
that nah nha nha in their own language. Door to door sellers announce their passage by beeping
their bike or van horns. House ladies come to the windows and doors to buy fruits and bread for
their guests.
Casa's particulares share the similar concept of B&B in the western world, except
that here the family life seems to intertwine with the tourists that come through family
spaces such as living rooms and kitchens where people snooze and cook.
There is constant movement, Cuban late afternoons are packed with activities.
Cigars are more a myth than reality. They are offered at fancy hotel lobbies and tourist shops but
are certainly not seen hanging from the mouths of many Cubans and in fact I have only noticed two
or three being smoked on the streets.
The 'system' gives me mixed feelings. Everyone is fed, at least half of the month. ( rationed food isn't enough to feed a family for the whole month), school is free and mandatory, healthcare is also
covered. Having some needs met, a good share of Cubans aren't too pushed to make money and instead begging for pens, clothes and exchanges between cuban pesos and cucs
(foreign currency).
It is a fascinating place, full of colour, life, beauty and rhythm
May McDonald's, Ikea and supermarket chains never invade this country!